Alessandro Perricone makes the case for the often overlooked heart of the restaurant.

After attending The World’s 50 Best awards ceremony in June this year, Relæ Community partner and head sommelier Alessandro Perricone realised he’d spent a lot of the occasion waiting for a category that didn’t focus on chefs.

Enjoying the ceremony, I was waiting for an award that didn’t have the word ‘chef’ in it. I wondered why we focused so much on cooks and so little on everything else

Alessandro Perricone

For Vice Italia, he reflects on this strange barometer and asks “what really defines the quality of a restaurant”. Is it the chef? Or is it more than that?